How to spend three days in Bologna, Italy

Home to beautiful medieval architecture, glittering archways and porticos, and the oldest university in the world, if Bologna isn’t on your Italy itinerary, you need to ask yourself why not.

Of course, it’s also home to bolognese, amazing focaccia, and is in the region home to parmesan, balsamic vinegar, and Parma ham. Safe to say, it’s a foodie paradise.

So, let’s dive in and find out how to spend three days in Bologna, Italy!

Getting there

First things first, getting to Bologna is really easy. It’s ideally placed in northern Italy, while still being within easy reach of central Italian staple cities like Florence, Milan, and Rome.

You can get there by train from pretty much anywhere in Italy with direct trains as far south as Naples and Bari and across central Italy and northern Italy including Florence, Rome, Milan, Venice, Verona, and more. I booked my trains through Omio which was really handy on the go, and it kept me up-to-date for any delays and platform changes along the way.

If you’re coming from further afield, there are also direct trains from Bologna to Munich in Germany, so you can build a sustainable travel plan or integrate it easily into an interrailing adventure.

You can also get FlixBus in and out of Bologna, connecting you across Europe, if you’re on a budget or just have more time on your hands.

Finally, there are direct flights across Europe into Bologna Airport (BLQ) and it’s located just a seven-minute monorail journey from the city’s central station. I flew directly into here from Manchester with Ryanair for around £22 one-way.

Day One

For me, the first day in a new city is all about getting the lay of the land. So, naturally, this involved a lot of walking. You can also hire bikes all around Bologna and there are plenty of cycle lanes to keep you safe from the traffic.

Piazza Maggiore

As with many Italian cities and towns, Bologna has a main piazza that’s a hub for tourists and locals alike. Here, that’s Piazza Maggiore where you can also find the Palazzo d’Accursio, the 14th-century town hall, and the popular statue of Neptune, which seemed like an odd choice for a landlocked city with no waterways, but I digress.

Explore the Porticos

When someone told me before I left that I had to go and find a number of different porticos, I was confused about how this was a popular attraction. The porticos are all over Bologna and they’re a series of arched walkways with vaulted ceilings, open sidings, and beautifully-maintained tiled floors.

Each portico is different, with some having extremely ornate murals that span centuries on the ceiling. Others have beautiful tiling details and some have huge lanterns as a focal point. It’s a cool way to explore the city by just following different porticos for a few blocks to see where they lead.

Giardini Margherita

To the south of the city, you’ll find a gorgeous green space known as the Giardini Margherita. There are tons of trails to walk, run, or cycle around and there’s even a separate cafe and aperitivo bar in the park, depending on the time of day you’re visiting.

When I was there, the park also had a few street food vendors and a craft beer tent for the evening, as well as a cycling Sportiva event in the daytime. If you’re looking to lose the crowds of the Old Town and chill out, this is the perfect spot.

See the Towers

It’s pretty much impossible to miss the towers in Bologna. Officially known as Le due Torri: Garisenda e degli Asinelli, these huge terracotta towers offer panoramic views of the city. Of course, when I went, they were being renovated so I couldn’t go inside, but the towers also serve as a useful landmark if you find yourself lost in the labyrinthine side streets.

Day Two

The second day of the trip for me was all about seeing the region and tasting delicious food. So, after a quick look on Omio, I booked a 20-minute train to Modena, home of balsamic vinegar and amazing Romanesque architecture.

Duomo di Modena

One of the main sites in Modena has to be the cathedral. Architecturally, it’s completely different from anything in the area thanks to its cream-white colouring, rather than the terracotta stonework elsewhere. It was built back in the 1400s and dominates the Old Town of Modena in Piazza Grande, which is a UNESCO Heritage Site.

Acetaia Comunale

You can’t come to Modena without trying balsamic vinegar, but if you want to know all about the history of balsamic in Modena, you need to visit Acetaia Comunale. Also located in Piazza Grande, you can dive into the history and learn about how this amazing ingredient is made and what makes it so special when it’s made in Modena.

Palazzo Comunale

Located opposite the Duomo di Modena, also in Piazza Grande is the 17th-century Palazzo Comunale. This palace spans the centuries and has been used for tons of different things over the years. Nowadays, you can explore the different rooms which are filled with art and tapestries, relevant to the local area.

Mercato Storia Albinelli

After all this exploring, hunger grows. This is when you need to head to the best place in Modena, the Mercato Storia Albinelli. The main market in town is beautiful, packed with produce of all kinds and has plenty of places to try different ingredients or sit and enjoy your makeshift picnic. You’ll find plenty of locals shopping here as well, which is always a good sign.

Day Three

For the final day in Bologna, it’s time to try and see what you’ve missed, whether that’s inside the city or in the surrounded Emilia Romagna region.

Get out to the vineyards

One of the best things about this foodie hotspot is that it also has plenty of wine to wash it all down with. There are a few winemaking regions within a short regional train ride of Bologna, or you can jump on a tour. The town of Zola Predosa to the west of the city are a good place to start for a few different vineyards.

Visit the port gates

As with a lot of medieval cities, Bologna has a series of gates at different entry points to the city. Each one looks completely different, and it’s a good way to see the city to visit each one. Of the 12 original gates, there are 10 left, so you can see the entire city on this quirky, self-guided walking tour.

Check out the Archiginnasio Municipal Library

If you love beautiful interior design, artwork, architecture, and history, you have to visit the Archiginnasio Municipal Library in the centre of Bologna. It used to be the main university building in the city, and still houses a working library for the students there.

It’s also home to the anatomical theatre as well as rotating exhibits on different forms of literature through the ages. When I was there, it was a small exhibition on illustrations in Italian literature which was beautiful! It’s worth noting that you do not need to pay to go into the Archiginnasio, but you do have to pay to visit the anatomical theatre.

Where to eat and drink

Okay, now onto important matters. Here’s where I ate and drank while I was in Bologna, and none of them let me down!

• Sfoglia Rina: A cult fresh pasta place that often has queues, but the queues move really quickly, so it’s worth it.
• Trattoria La Finestrella: Traditional alfresco Italian restaurant near the Little Venice part of the city.
• Zenzero Bistrot: Neighbourhood vibes that changes its menu everyday and always has at least one vegan option – one of the most affordable places to eat in the city!
• La Slerfa Focacceria Genovese: For the best focaccia in the city. You can get it with various toppings and a nice cold drink.
• Fuori Orsa Moline: Artisan craft brewery with two places in Bologna. This branch is in the middle of town and has plenty of outdoor seating near the main restaurants, so you can enjoy a beer before or after dinner.

Also a special mention to Combo Bologna, the hostel where I stayed which was excellent value and had a full kitchen and well-stocked bar with plenty of local wines to enjoy in their garden terrace area.